Why Tomatoes Are Worth the Effort
A sun-warmed tomato picked straight from the vine is one of the defining pleasures of home gardening. Shop-bought tomatoes — harvested early and transported long distances — simply can't compete. Growing your own takes some attention, but the rewards in flavour and satisfaction are unmatched.
Choosing the Right Variety
With hundreds of tomato varieties available, the choice can feel daunting. A useful first step is understanding the difference between determinate and indeterminate types:
- Determinate (bush) tomatoes grow to a fixed height, set fruit all at once, and need minimal staking. Good for containers and smaller spaces.
- Indeterminate (cordon) tomatoes keep growing and fruiting until frost kills them. They need staking and regular pinching out of side shoots, but give the longest harvest period.
Popular Varieties by Use
| Variety | Type | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Gardener's Delight | Indeterminate | Fresh eating, reliable cropper |
| San Marzano | Indeterminate | Sauces and preserving |
| Tumbling Tom | Determinate | Hanging baskets and pots |
| Black Krim | Indeterminate | Slicing, rich complex flavour |
| Sungold | Indeterminate | Cherry eating, exceptionally sweet |
Starting Tomatoes from Seed
Start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before your last expected frost date. Sow into small pots or trays of seed compost, barely covering the seeds. Keep at 18–24°C (65–75°F) for germination, which typically takes 7–14 days. Once seedlings have two true leaves, pot them on into 3-inch pots. Gradually harden off outdoor plants over 7–10 days before transplanting.
Planting Out and Ongoing Care
Planting Depth
Tomatoes can form roots anywhere along their stem. Plant them deeply — burying the stem up to the lowest set of leaves — to encourage a robust root system.
Feeding
Once the first flowers appear, begin feeding with a high-potassium liquid fertiliser (such as tomato feed) every 7–14 days. This encourages fruit development rather than excessive leafy growth.
Watering
Consistent watering is critical. Irregular watering is a leading cause of blossom end rot (a calcium uptake problem) and fruit splitting. Aim for steady, even moisture. Mulching around the base helps retain soil moisture.
Pinching Out (Indeterminate Varieties)
Remove "side shoots" — the small shoots that emerge in the angle between the main stem and a leaf branch. Left to grow, they become full additional stems. Pinching them out keeps energy directed to fruit development.
Common Problems and Solutions
- Blossom end rot: Dark, sunken patch on the fruit base. Caused by calcium deficiency due to irregular watering. Water more consistently; avoid over-fertilising with nitrogen.
- Blight (late blight): Brown patches on leaves and fruit in wet conditions. Choose blight-resistant varieties, improve airflow, and avoid wetting foliage when watering.
- Fruit splitting: Usually from sudden heavy watering after a dry spell. Keep moisture levels consistent.
- Yellowing lower leaves: Often normal as the plant matures, but can indicate nitrogen deficiency or fungal issue if spreading rapidly.
Harvesting and End of Season
Harvest tomatoes when they're fully coloured and give slightly to gentle pressure. In late summer, as temperatures drop, pick any remaining green tomatoes and ripen them indoors on a windowsill or alongside a ripe banana (which releases ethylene gas and speeds ripening). At the end of the season, compost the plant material — but do not compost any diseased foliage.